Categories
Photography Places

Shut out

Recovered from the Wayback Machine.

The weather Saturday was lovely with cooler temperatures, and a lot less humidity. I’d been cooped up all week working on this and that and was in a mood for a long drive. As I hadn’t been to the Johnson Shut-Ins since early Spring, I wanted to see how they looked in the Summer and headed in that direction.

I can see why the Shut-Ins are so popular – they are extraordinary in all seasons. However, it’s in the summer that their true beauty reaches its peak, with the dark green of the trees, and the rust and pale blue of the surrounding rocks, offsetting the turquoise/aqua of the water. There are little pools in and among the rocks you can wade in, or go further downstream if you prefer sandier conditions. Though my camera has been problematical lately, I still managed to grab some fairly decent photos.

Lots of people at the park, but it’s large enough so you never feel crowded. You can swim at the Shut-Ins, but walking around isn’t easy – the rocks are very uneven and slippery.

There’s a boardwalk that surrounds the Shut-Ins and then steps that take you to the rocks themselves. Last time out I managed to walk around the rocks; however, this time I had to refrain because my ankle is still swollen and bruised from the last major fall, and further irritated by some injudicious hiking. Recently, I’ve had to use a hiking stick even on flatter grounds.

But I was wistful, as I stood at the bottom of the steps and looked out at all the people having fun and exploring. I wanted nothing more than to be in cut-offs and swimsuit and to jump into the water and feel the aeration of the falls around me. It must be like swimming in champagne.

A young man, probably in his early 20’s, saw me at the bottom of the steps leaning on my walking stick, looking longingly at the others playing. He started past and then stopped and turned around, and asked if I needed help to get around the rocks. I was both pleased by such generosity and chagrined that he would offer to help. After all, I’m only…

..well, only close to 50, walking with a limp, and in obvious need of my walking stick. Or helping arm.

I did thank him with the warmest smile I could pull up, as I declined his help, telling him that the rocks and my ankle would not be a good mix. I refrained from telling him that what he sees isn’t what I am.

What I feel, what I am, is that young girl sitting on the rocks by herself, looking at the water flowing past, playing with her hair and just dreaming of whatever. As long as no mirrors or helpful young men are about, that’s what I am.

Categories
Environment outdoors Photography

Verboten

Tuesday’s temperatures were in the 90’s with high humidity so perhaps choosing the Shaw Nature Reserve for my late afternoon walk wasn’t the best of ideas. It did have the advantage, though, of being relatively deserted. Of course it was: sane people don’t walk in swamps during a heat wave.

I hadn’t been out to Shaw since all the rains and was amazed at how lush and green everything was. The field grasses were up to my chest, and the flowers were so thick that in some places, the aroma made my head buzz.

Wait a sec…that’s not what caused the buzzing. Bugs. Lots of bugs out Tuesay. I was met as soon as I left the car and escorted about by varieties of wasp, fly, mosquito, or other flying creatures tempted by my lucious self. The black flies wanted to feed on me, and the sand wasps on the flies and I was, in effect, a self-contained mobile ecosystem.

The insect life was manageable until I decided to walk through the forest; as soon as I started walking next to the stream, I attracted more and more insects until I was walking in the middle of a swarm of buzzing, biting, stinging creatures. This combined with the humidity and relentless green felt like a wall pushing against me, subtle clues that I wasn’t welcome in the forest today. Thank you, come again another day.

I continued on, stubbornly at this point because I wanted photos of the approaching storm from the prarie on the other side of the woods. However, when I walked into what seemed like a swarm of black flies, combined with a spider web across the path, it became too much. I turned around and started back. They followed and I gave an odd sort of scream and just started running– swatting about me as much as I could to keep the creatures off. I was glad no one else was around because I must have looked like a lunatic.

The moment I left the forest and entered the wild garden area, most of the creatures aburptly left me. I knew the reason for the sudden cessation of pursuit was that the insects preferred to stay near the water and out from the open–there were a lot of birds about, too. Still, I felt pushed out of the woods by hands made of flying insects, which is a bit creepy if you think on it.

It’s hard to imagine that at one time much of the area where I walked was clear cut. Back in the 1800’s much of the forested area in the Ozarks was clear cut for homes and manufacturing. Thanks to rich soil and plentiful water and sunshine, the forests are again thick with growth and lumber companies are now looking at southern forests for clear cutting, pointing to previously clear-cut lands to show that the land recovers. From the Chrisian Science Monitor story:

Looking down a clear-cut Ozark ridge, a forester argued vigorously that clear-cutting is the best way to maintain long-term forest health. “Sure it’s unsightly. It’s like a new baby being born. It’s beautiful over time, but it’s ugly to start with.”

This talk of ‘clear cutting’ being good for the environment reminds me of the recent controversy about the salmon runs in the Northwest. The current administration wants to count hatchery based salmon with the wild to determine whether a species should be listed as endangered or not — a move that not one scientist would back or validate, no matter how many were asked to comment.

We’re being told that most species would still be listed as endangered even with this new count, and that this approach is a viable method for stream management. But what we’re finding is that rather than help species recover, the hatchery fish are leading to a decline–the genetically inferior bred fish compete with the more robust wild salmon for the same resources. But that’s science. We don’t need science anymore; all we need is a great deal of assurance when we speak.

You know how it is: we don’t want to stop runoff into streams from construction or restrict agricultural pollution around streams and rivers forever–easier to just capture a bunch of fish and breed ’em.

Just like we can re-plant forests here in Missouri. Only problem is, long-term research has shown that there has been a decline of genetic diversity with the trees in our forests. Just like poodles and politicians, trees can become too inbred and the species weaken. The forests look thick and rich, and the bugs are certainly happy with their home — but whatever the true nature of the Ozarks was before we came along is gone forever. The best we can hope for now is not to continue our ‘short cuts to conservation’.

You should lie down now and remember the forest,
for it is disappearing–
no, the truth is it is gone now
and so what details you can bring back
might have a kind of life.

Not the one you had hoped for, but a life
–you should lie down now and remember the forest–
nonetheless, you might call it “in the forest,”
no the truth is, it is gone now,
starting somewhere near the beginning, that edge,

Or instead the first layer, the place you remember
(not the one you had hoped for, but a life)
as if it were firm, underfoot, for that place is a sea,
nonetheless, you might call it “in the forest,”
which we can never drift above, we were there or we were not,

No surface, skimming. And blank in life, too,
or instead the first layer, the place you remember,
as layers fold in time, black humus there,
as if it were firm, underfoot, for that place is a sea,
like a light left hand descending, always on the same keys.

The flecked birds of the forest sing behind and before
no surface, skimming. And blank in life, too,
sing without a music where there cannot be an order,
as layers fold in time, black humus there,
where wide swatches of light slice between gray trunks,

Where the air has a texture of drying moss,
the flecked birds of the forest sing behind and before:
a musk from the mushrooms and scalloped molds.
They sing without a music where there cannot be an order,
though high in the dry leaves something does fall,

Nothing comes down to us here.
Where the air has a texture of drying moss,
(in that place where I was raised) the forest was tangled,
a musk from the mushrooms and scalloped molds,
tangled with brambles, soft-starred and moving, ferns

And the marred twines of cinquefoil, false strawberry, sumac–
nothing comes down to us here,
stained. A low branch swinging above a brook
in that place where I was raised, the forest was tangled,
and a cave just the width of shoulder blades.

You can understand what I am doing when I think of the entry–
and the marred twines of cinquefoil, false strawberry, sumac–
as a kind of limit. Sometimes I imagine us walking there
(. . .pokeberry, stained. A low branch swinging above a brook)
in a place that is something like a forest.

But perhaps the other kind, where the ground is covered
(you can understand what I am doing when I think of the entry)
by pliant green needles, there below the piney fronds,
a kind of limit. Sometimes I imagine us walking there.
And quickening below lie the sharp brown blades,

The disfiguring blackness, then the bulbed phosphorescence of the roots.
But perhaps the other kind, where the ground is covered,
so strangely alike and yet singular, too, below
the pliant green needles, the piney fronds.
Once we were lost in the forest, so strangely alike and yet singular, too,
but the truth is, it is, lost to us now.

The Forest by Susan Stewart

Speaking of leaving nature alone, Jak’s View from Vancouver writes about the re-introduction of wolves back into Yellowstone. In a decade this native species has already made a major impact in recovering the natural balance in the park and surrounding area.

Beyond being a vital species to the ecosystem, it’s wonderful to think of wolves roaming freely in the park again. They bring the heart back into the lands.

I never did get to my prairie to take photos of the approaching storm, but I did manage to get some from the wildflower area; including the cactus plants, which just absolutely thrive here — bees like them.

But my digital camera, tired out from being rained on and dropped from the seat of my car when I hit the brakes, slammed against a wall during a wind, or yanked out into humid green days like Tuesday is becoming querulous when I ask it to focus; taking photos is more like coaxing an ancient relative out of a comfortable seat by the fire, than point, frame, and shoot.

We’re both getting older, which means it needs to stay home more, and I need to stay home less.

Categories
Photography

Rainy carnival kind of day

Categories
Photography Weather

Moderation in all but storms

I managed to walk right into a major storm, and ended up having to take shelter until it was over. I was soaked, and I could feel the electricity of the storm on my skin, and the drop in pressure in my head.

I had a great time. I also managed to pick up some photos that are not usual for me, and I’ll post later today or tomorrow. My Nikon 995 does quite well in the rain. At least, for now.

Categories
Critters Photography

Sucking clay and beaver tracks

Recovered from the Wayback Machine.

I went for what was a three mile hike yesterday and ended up going six miles, primarily because I followed an animal track rather than the trail meant for humans. In the Spring here in Missouri when the marsh grasses are fresh and tall, and haven’t been beaten down by other hikers, you can mistake a natural path used by animals for one used by humans — until you reach that moment when you go, “Way a sec. This can’t be right.”

My moment yesterday was when I drew close to the river and realized that much of the trail was under water, and what was above was very wet clay. If you have not walked on wet clay before, you may think that walking on something like ice is difficult. However, ice just sits there, being hard and shiny and fairly dependable–you know if you step just right, your foot on the ice will go a certain way. Wet clay, on the other hand, is devious. It will seem to be hard and stable one moment, and just when you think you can walk at a normal pace, it liquifies beneath you in a brown goo that slides out from under your foot even if you’re not moving. Worse, it sucks at your shoe so that each step is accompanied by faintly obscene and definitely undignified sounds.

th-OP th-OP th-OP

Thankfully I had my walking stick with me and was able to use it to hold myself relatively upright, as well as test for shallow pockets of muck, as compared to ones that will eat you alive. It didn’t help that I wasn’t wearing my hiking boots, but was, instead wearing my relatively new, though bought at a lovely discount, white tennis shoes.

At one point, the trail, what there was of it, split in two directions but neither was marked. I picked the wrong one, which is how I ended up walking through hip high green on a narrow trail that never did stabilize. Being pigheaded, I was determined to follow it until I reached the regular trail, but the path ended up going into the river. Not, however, before coming face to face with a nicely sized beaver, who I can tell you, was more than a little miffed that I was tromping through his territory.

(Some would say that bears are the most ill tempered mammals, but no creature can get meaner than a beaver — just ask people whose dogs have been drowned by the critters.)

April Flowers

Beaver are hard to photograph and here I was, faced with a golden opportunity to get a nice picture. I reached — ever so gently — to get my camera from its case, but even with the care I took, the beaver took alarm at my actions and vanished into the tall grass; moments later I heard a splash as it headed into the river. All I was left with was the opportunity to capture his tracks. In all the lovely muck.

beaver tracks

I returned to where the trail split and this time headed in the right direction. Along the way I passed fields full of wild flowers–amazing flowers– and birds and dragonflies and other colorful insects. I used my walking stick to wave in front of my face when going through dense greenery, to break any webs across the trail — it’s not particularly pleasant to walk into a web on a trail and then end up with a harmless but intimidating spider crawling on your face. Even if you’re not frightened of spiders, and let me assure you, I am, the experience is not edifying.

During all of this, I met no other hikers, which was unusual. The day was beautiful and the area usually has people about, even during the week. Finally, I met up with an older woman and asked her if I was heading in the right direction to make it back to the main trail. She assured me I was and warned me not to head in the western direction, because much of the area was flooded and impassable. I told her I had just come from that direction.

“Oh, but you don’t look that…”, and then she looked at my feet and lower legs, my hands, and my face, “…muddy.”

When I got back to my car, I was exhausted, and dirty…but satisfied. It felt good.